DJI Mavic Pro IMU Calibration1

DJI Mavic Pro IMU Calibration

DJI Mavic Pro IMU Calibration

Today we are going to be talking about the DJI Mavic Pro. More specifically the IMU calibration of the Mavic.

The Inertial Measurement Unit (IMU) is one of the most important sensors on the Mavis, but it is also the most vulnerable to interference. The IMU acquires the angle, speed, and acceleration of the Mavic, so if it functions abnormally, it could negatively affect flight. The compass is used to know where the drone is heading, ensuring it flies in the right direction, and allowing it to return to home automatically. Without the compass, the Mavic would lose its ability to navigate. This is why the Mavic has dual IMUs and dual compasses.

You shouldn’t have to calibrate the IMU often. It would be a good idea to recalibrate it if you crash and your Mavic is no longer stable. Also, for me…. I like to recalibrate all sensors after a firmware update which DJI has recent pushed out, so it has inspired me to make this video. That is not specified by DJI but it is something I like to do for peace of mind prior to flying for the first time after an update. The Calibration takes about 5 minutes from strart to finish so let’s get into it.

First we want to start off on a level dry and stable surface to prevent any chance of a faulty calibration. Here I have laid out some levels on the island in my house to ensure it’s level. If you don’t have a physical level you could always download an app for your phone or tablet and use it instead. I just chose the first one that came up in the search, but you can choose whichever one you’d like.

Now that we know our platform is level and stable lets ensure the Mavic pro is ready for calibration. The only thing the Mavic really needs in preparation for IMU Calibration is to remove the blades from all for corners. This ensures the Mavic will get the proper angles for calibration as well as a safety measure just in case the Mavic develops a mind of its own.

With the blades now removed we can start to connect to the Mavic via remote control using the DJI Go4 App. If this is your very first time turning on the DJI Mavic Pro, the initial setup process will walk you through the IMU calibration this. If you are coming back for a second go at calibration you can select the 3 dots at the upper right hand screen to go into General Settings, select the drone icon upper left and go into “MC Settings”. Select Advanced settings then Sensors state button and it will take you into the IMU and Compass sensor screen. I will be doing a similar video on Mavic Pro’s Compass calibration and will link it in this video once its uploaded.
Now that we have opened up the IMU sensor screen we can select the option to calibrate IMU about three quarters of the way down the screen.

Now, we have finally entered the IMU calibration. The initial pop up gives you the list of requirements needed to successfully perform the calibration. Ie Dismount Propellers first, Follow the instruction to calibrate. Do not move the aircraft unless to overturn the aircraft as indicated, and ensure the aircraft powered on. Do not start motor. This process doesn’t take long but it is wise to do this on a full battery to ensure power remains on the Mavic the whole time.
The first orientation of calibration is the normal flat and level stance the Mavic would have in the transport position. The calibration will take a few seconds and there’s 2 ways you’ll be able to tell once that particular orientation is complete. The first is by the screen on the phone or tablet, the Mavic will rotate orientation in the app to show the next position to place the Mavic for calibration. The second is by the lights on the Mavic. During calibration the lights on the Mavic are solid yellow and once it is complete the back led lights rapidly flash green to indicate it’s ready for a position change. There are 5 rotations to be performed. Flat, on it’s sides (both directions), vertical (nose up), and upside down. Once these have been complete the calibration process is complete and the app asks you to restart the Mavic.

And just like that the IMU calibration is over quickly and painlessly. If you run into any type of hangups don’t worry. Reset and try again. If it continues to fail go over all settings and verify there’s no severe angle or interference around and if all else fails go ahead and contact DJI support.
I hope you found this video helpful if you have any questions leave them in the comments below give me a thumbs up if you liked it and subscribe for more content we’ll see you next video.

Prevent Fly-A-Ways check your DJI Spark WiFi Interference and Sensors State

DJI Spark WiFi Interference

Today we’re going to be talking about the DJI Spark WiFi Interference and how much it is susceptible too. I have a eero TrueMesh WiFi system that offers tri-band WiFi signals and it covers the same spectrum as the DJI Spark. We’re going to use this as a means to test interference and show what the Spark can or can not handle.

So whenever you go to a new flying field you definitely want to check for interference.

Not only the IMU and Compass interference, which you can find here in sensor state, click the 3 dots go into general settings

then MC settings

and scroll down to advanced settings at the bottom.

From here you can see where it says sensor state.

The IMU and Compass Sensor readings are found here.

You have 4 color options that are used to show the state of the sensors.

Blue- Channel In Use Green- Excellent Yellow- Good or Red- Poor. It is my personal opinion that Red should be labeled DO NOT FLY, but that’s just me. DJI uses this color scheme throughout the spark to show either signal strength or sensor state as stated previously.



…..But you also need to check the WiFi interference too…..



We’re going to go into WiFi channels…. Pay attention to this… This is important! You have your 2.4 GHz and your 5.8GHz, this is referencing the WiFi channels you have available to use.

These are the WiFi channels which connect your remote control to your drone or your phone to your drone. There are 2 bands used here with the Spark: 2.4 GHz and 5.8 GHz. These are the same WiFi ranges used in the IEEE 802.11 a/b/g/n standards.


If you notice I am using the 5.8 GHz range right now and it has available the 149, 153, 157, 161, and 165. Notice 161 and 165 are fluctuating between green and red… This is going to make me NOT use these channels it’s going to make me stay away from these channels. Right now I am on the 149 band. If you are ever going to change these channels you want to do it on the ground and never in flight. The Spark Disconnects while changing channels and to avoid the risk of fly away you want to be grounded. I have my propellers off on the spark right now just in case anything were to happen. So I am going to choose channel index 153 and hit apply, and you will see the channel get “busy” and settle back down once the channel change has completed.

DJI Spark WiFi Interference

RSSI or Received Signal Strength Indicator is a common name for the received radio signal power level in a wireless network. It is often measured in either decibel (DB) or simply numbers between 0 and 100. RSSI can be expressed as either a negative or positive value, however, in both instances, smaller values closer to zero indicate a stronger signal. In this case, as it relates to the spark the RSSI is measuring the interference in the channels from -60 to -100 and the lower the interference is towards the -100 scales the better quality the controller is to the spark

The point I’m trying to drive home is 1 be aware of your surroundings, 2 monitor your WiFi channels, and 3 If you fly in a new area check double check and triple check all you sensor states and WiFi channel congestion.

New XHover Stingy FPV Freestyle Frame Unboxing — A Noobs first fpv quad build!

A NOOBS first FPV quad build! That’s right the XHover Stingy Freestyle FPV frame has finally arrived! The reasons for choosing the XHover Stingy FPV Freestyle Frame are that I liked the looks and compactness of the quad. The airframe has that WOW factor for sure! The frame is a TrueX frame (all 4 corners measure equal distance) which should offer an all-around consistent feel at different attitudes. Offering more predictable flight characteristics.

I feel that it will have a great center of gravity and offer the stability that I am looking for.

Rotor Riot team pilot Kevin Dougherty – also known as StingersSwarm, or “Stingy” for short has been working with XHover to develop his new frame.


What’s in the box!?

XHover Stingy FPV Freestyle Frame1x 2mm Carbon Fiber Top Plate

1x 2mm Carbon Fiber Main Plate with Press Nuts

1x 1.5mm Carbon Fiber Bottom Plate

2x 2mm Carbon Fiber Camera Plates  

4x 4mm Carbon Fiber Arms

26x 8mm Titanium Button Head Screws

8x 20mm Black Knurled Standoffs

1x 28mm Gunmetal Knurled Standoff

1x Small Battery Strap

1x Medium Battery Strap

1x ESC Sticker Sheet

4x Foam Landing Pads

1x Rubberized Battery Pad


XHover Stingy FPV Freestyle Frame


Titanium hardware is a great and welcome addition to this kit. Strength and light weight nature of Titanium makes these screws near indestructible.


XHover Stingy FPV Freestyle Frame

XHover Stingy FPV Freestyle Frame

XHover Stingy FPV Freestyle Frame

XHover Stingy FPV Freestyle Frame

XHover Stingy FPV Freestyle Frame

XHover Stingy FPV Freestyle FrameDon’t forget the FPV camera plates. They sandwich between the top and bottom plates at the front of the quad.

XHover Stingy FPV Freestyle Frame

Planned Electronics:
Betaflight F3 Flight Controller — HERE


Runcam Swift — HERE

Antennas – TBS Triumph — HERE

Video Reciever Laforge — HERE


This airframe build took me about 30 minutes to piece together… Yes, I’m new at the FPV quad build thing, but hey, it’s a start! I will be posting more updates on the build as it progresses.